In a world where skincare and makeup routines have become increasingly streamlined, Merit Beauty has set out to redefine the fragrance experience. With the launch of their latest offering, Retrospect L'Extrait de Parfum, the brand aims to transport users back in time, capturing the essence of iconic perfumes from decades past. This meticulously crafted scent, developed in collaboration with master perfumer Fanny Bal, promises to be a true olfactory delight for fragrance enthusiasts.
Rediscovering the Lost Art of Fragrance-Making
Crafting a Timeless Scent
Merit Beauty's foray into the world of fine fragrance was driven by a desire to offer something truly unique and captivating. The brand's CMO, Aila Morin, explains, "We struggled to find something in the category that spoke to us, which is why we decided to take the step into fragrance." Partnering with the renowned perfumer Fanny Bal, the team set out to create a scent that would evoke a sense of nostalgia while maintaining a modern sensibility.Retrospect's intricate blend of notes, including bergamot, pear, jasmine, rosemary, violet, vanilla, musk, and moss, is a testament to the brand's commitment to craftsmanship. Bal reveals that the fragrance features classic notes, such as aldehydes and orris concrete, which are not commonly used in contemporary perfumery. By blending these timeless elements with more modern accords like pear and musk, the perfumer has crafted a truly layered and captivating scent.Prioritizing Longevity and Concentration
Retrospect's formulation is a deliberate nod to the fragrance-making traditions of the past. Morin explains, "Choosing to do an extrait instead of a parfum or an eau de toilette and doubling the oil-to-alcohol ratio is very vintage." This decision to prioritize wear time over bottle size reflects Merit Beauty's focus on quality and craftsmanship, rather than chasing the latest trends.The extrait de parfum concentration, which contains nearly 30% perfume oil, ensures that Retrospect lasts all day on the skin. This level of concentration was once the industry standard, before the association of bottle size with perceived value led to a shift towards more diluted formulations. By reviving this traditional approach, Merit Beauty is inviting users to rediscover the true art of fragrance-making.Honoring the Nostalgic Appeal of Fragrance
The name "Retrospect" itself is a nod to the brand's desire to reflect on the past and honor the long-standing traditions of fragrance creation. Morin draws a parallel to the appeal of vintage clothing, where the nostalgic feel is combined with a modern twist. This sentiment is echoed in the scent's composition, as well as the bottle design, which is inspired by the artful fragrance vessels of bygone eras.The development of Retrospect was a meticulous process, taking around two years and more than 200 rounds to perfect. This dedication to craftsmanship is a testament to Merit Beauty's commitment to creating a fragrance that will resonate with fragrance enthusiasts who appreciate the nuances and complexities of a well-composed scent.Embracing Individuality and Storytelling
Recognizing that scent preferences are highly personal, Merit Beauty has taken a thoughtful approach to the launch of Retrospect. Morin acknowledges that the fragrance's complexity may not appeal to everyone, as the brand has intentionally moved away from the more linear and trend-driven formulas that have become prevalent in the e-commerce fragrance market.To celebrate the unique perspectives and experiences that fragrance can evoke, Merit Beauty has curated Retrospect's campaign through the eyes of five female artists: Yudi Echevarria, Hanna Tvietie, Pia Riverola, Suzanne Saroff, and Lauren Bamford. By partnering with Gentlewoman, another woman-focused company, the brand has also created a stylish coffee table book that delves into the creation process and explores the broader themes of fragrance and nostalgia.Morin explains, "For us, including the perspectives of people's relationship with fragrance was the key, making women the narrator instead." This focus on storytelling and individual experiences aligns with Merit Beauty's ethos of female empowerment, ensuring that Retrospect is not just a fragrance, but a multifaceted exploration of the emotional and sensorial connections we have with scent.